Riccadonna Restaurant newspaper sketch, 1890s |
The snappy young men bounded up the brownstone steps, opera stars trailed their gloved hands on the iron balustrade, and a few sightseers stood shyly at the door.
Close by, a bronze statue of a nude woman wobbled on her stand. Soon, she would be auctioned alongside pianos, looking glasses, tropical plants—the entire contents of the building, not to mention a three-year lease.
It happened without warning, just as anyone’s livelihood may suddenly be destroyed.
During dinner on August 1, 1897, a sheriff appeared at the restaurant, interrupted service, and ushered everyone outside. Then he announced that the proprietor, Abele Riccadonna, owed $1,000 to a partner in an import company that supplied the restaurant with macaroni and olive oil.
The next morning, standing at the curb, Riccadonna greeted a newspaper reporter: Ah! ¡Come va, caro amico mio!
The former owner stood amid the restaurant’s furnishings,
newly arranged on the sidewalk and street. Gesturing toward the portrait of
Garibaldi, the Bohemian glass dishes, and piles of linen to be sold that day,
he declared, “I will begin all over again.”
***
The Riccadonna restaurant and hotel had inhabited 42
Union Square since 1880. Its menu was sublime, le tout New-York declared:
spaghetti, lobster, and fritto misto washed down with Chianti or Barolo.
Riccadonna menu |
Oh! to have a “big time” in the opulent dining room, where crystal and candlelight sparkled and laughter and several languages flew through the air. From crowded vestibules and hallways, hopeful patrons watched and waited for a table.
Oh! to sit in the bay window overlooking springtime in
Union Square, Chopin’s Polonaise in F-Sharp Minor floating down from the
conservatory above. A visitor enthused:
The first blush of the rising breakfast that tints your reverie is
radishes. They melt imperceptibly into sardines. There is no jar in the glowing
glory of the gustation. It unfolds noiselessly and slowly: opalescent flushes
of veal cutlet deepen into filet; orient omelette spreads over the scene,
bringing with it a pristine sense of Parmesan cheese, and gathering color and
force, the full breakfast breaks at last in salad and coffee.
Born in Milan in 1848, Abele Riccadonna left Italy in
his late teens and settled in Paris, where he worked as an apprentice and subsequently
opened a restaurant on the Right Bank. He flourished until 1871 when the Paris
Commune—a revolutionary government that controlled Paris for two months—scared
him away.
Abele Riccadonna, 1890s |
Abele traveled to Havana and ran a restaurant there until yellow fever surged and chased him to America. He arrived in New York in 1873.
In the years after the Civil War, Italian, French, German, and Hungarian immigrants introduced a new style of restaurant service to Americans. Table d’hôte, also known as prix-fixe, was a European innovation.
In eighteenth-century New York City, table d’hôte restaurants began as modest affairs, usually occupying the basement or front room of a house where the chef and his or her family lived upstairs.
Abele Riccadonna opened two restaurants in the West Village. Around 1880, feeling confident, he moved uptown to Union Square. Nearby, the Academy of Music—largely an opera house—attracted wealthy New Yorkers, diplomats, producers, and performers. They became his clientele.
Regulars included the opera stars Adelina Patti, Diego de Vivo, Luigi Ravelli, and Pasquale Brignoli. The renowned actresses Sarah Bernhardt and Eleanora Duse both dined regularly at Riccadonna.
In 1894, on top of the world, he married Frances Reynolds, 25 years his junior, a daughter of Scottish immigrants. She and Abele named their daughter Adelina in honor of Patti.
Three years later, the sheriff arrived and turned the Riccadonnas’ lives inside out.
Rumors zipped around town: Abele was a drunkard and a
gambler. He’d run out of money and couldn’t pay his debts.
It is true that the restaurateur had gone broke and owed money to a lot of people. That was because of his boundless generosity. The man adored artists and impresarios and would do anything for them.
If an artist was down and out, “Ric” would say, “Come! Eat at my table until you have work. You may pay when able. Come!”
When “Ric” was down and out, no one came to his aid. “The ingratitude of his numerous pensioners cut the Italian to the soul,” wrote a reporter.
There’s something odd about the story of Abele
Riccadonna. What emboldened the sheriff to storm into a prestigious New York
institution and shut it down? How did he arrange to auction off everything in
less than 24 hours?
I think Abele may have been touched by the Black Hand, the Mano Nera. This society of extortionists, an extension of the Sicilian Mafia, rose to power in the United States during the late nineteenth century.
The tragedy of the Black Hand was that so many Italian immigrants were forced to reckon with it, even the most impoverished stonemason. No matter how little one earned, the Black Hand would seize a few coins. The men were scary—brimming with threats and violence. Demands often arrived in the form of a letter bearing an imprint like a skull and crossbones.
Abele Riccadonna would have been a good target. In order to keep his restaurant running, he relied on a tangled network of laborers, entertainers, and suppliers of food and décor. In 1897, New York City’s Police Department devoted few resources to combat the Black Hand and some cops were compromised or looked the other way.
Yet Abele did begin again. He opened a new Riccadonna on West 27th Street and it was there, in 1902, that he died “in harness,” according to a newspaper headline, in rooms above the restaurant.
His nephew Angelo took over.
Riccadonna advertisement, 1900 |
In 1906, Angelo shook off a Black Hand demand that he
fire a flutist who performed at Riccadonna. Although the police department announced
it would redouble its efforts to wipe out the organization, Angelo decided to
leave Manhattan for Brooklyn.
Between Coney Island, Steeplechase Park, and the race course, the Brooklyn Shore could hardly keep up with its own popularity. Angelo opened the Hotel Riccadonna in Brighton Beach. He invested heavily in the property, including the installation of cold storage, which received a lot of publicity in trade journals.
After several incarnations, the Hotel Riccadonna closed for good in 1927.
If you're passing through Union Square around twilight, you might catch sight of Abele Riccadonna hurrying by.